Brancaster to Burnham Overy Staithe (Stage 2 Norfolk Coast Path) (6 miles)

Although we finished stage 1 of our Norfolk Coast Path walk in Thornham, the next part of the path is inland so we decided to pick it up again at Brancaster.  We were originally aiming for Burnham Deepdale but this wasn’t as far as we had anticipated so decided to carry on to Burnham Overy Staithe.  Unfortunately in the hope of finding a pub or café we took a wrong turning and ended up in Burnham Norton and, as we couldn’t find pub, café or bus stop, we decided to walk on via the roadway to Burnham Market rather than double back.  So we didn’t actually make it to Burnham Overy Staithe, despite seeing it quite clearly in front of us!!  Not really knowing Burnham Market very well and coming out up one end, again with no pub in sight, we caught the bus back to Brancaster for lunch.  Burnham Market turned out to be a lovely looking place and as we went through on the brilliant Coasthopper bus we were quite sad we hadn’t explored it a bit further.  Another day perhaps.  

Brancaster Staithe

Back in Brancaster we popped over the road from the church to The Ship Hotel for lunch. The scampi and chips and warm bread rolls were lovely but unfortunately they lost our order from the bar to the kitchen somewhere so we ended up waiting for over an hour.  They did take the food off our bill, in the end, but a family with young children next to us also had to enquire about their food.  It was a lovely homely bar and the food was good so it's a shame the service let them down. 

The directions are for as far as we got before the wrong turn and then as they are on the map.  It should perhaps be noted that although this is the coastal path you are not in sight of the beach or the sea!

We parked just by the church in Brancaster.  There is a car park down at the beach and if you park here you will need to walk back up the road towards the village until you reach the signpost for the coastal path to Brancaster Staithe.  This area is all part of the National Trust's Brancaster Estate

Once on the coastal path follow it to Brancaster Staithe harbour.  You will have the back gardens of some rather lovely houses on your right and the marsh to your left.  Most of this part of the walk is on boardwalk.  You will pass a sign on your right for the Roman Fort of Branodunum although this is just earthworks now so not much to look at sadly.

When you reach the harbour go slightly right and around towards the harbour entrance.  There is a lobster shack on the left and the coast path continues opposite. 

Brancaster Staithe

After a short distance the path crosses a roadway and runs between two old buildings before coming out in the marshes again.  Follow this path again with gardens on your right and the marshes on the left.  The garden of The White Horse pub is along here if you need a break, although not very well marked.

Eventually you will come to a signpost.  If you want to finish in Barnham Deepdale follow the sign to the shop and café.  If not cross over and continue up some steps onwards to Bunham Overy Staithe (another 3 ¾ miles).

The path from here onwards is along a bank.  We walked this on a very blustery day, post ex-hurricane Bertha.  Although the wind was coming from the shore and not cold we were quite exposed and it was difficult to walk at times, and hold the camera still! I’m not sure I’d want to walk it in a cold winter wind!!  We were rewarded though by large flocks of geese flying over us.

Geese over Burnham Overy Marshes

Eventually the bank swings right and Burnham Overy Staithe is in front of you to the left, however, the bank then turns right again to go around the marshes so you are going back on yourself.  This is where we made the wrong decision. (Note to self: get a map!)  You will come to a T junction with a signpost to carry on on the coastal path or take a public footpath.  Because we were tired from battling with the wind we decided to head to the nearby village we could see on the footpath.  This was a bad move as Burnham Norton didn’t appear to have any facilities, nor a Coasthopper bus stop, so we then ended up walking another grumpy mile to Burnham Market instead.

Burnham Overy Staithe

However, if you continue on the coastal path to the left with the windmill in front of you then left again you will arrive in Burnham Overy Staithe. 

Our route was 7 miles (would have been 6 if we hadn’t detoured)

See the proper route on mapometer

Terrain: Easy, mostly flat, boardwalk, grass, could get muddy/flooded, stile, kissing gate

Habitat: Marsh, reedbeds, estuary, harbour

Facilities: (not sure what is available in Burnham Overy Staithe) Parking, toilets and kiosk at Brancaster beach. The Ship Hotel in Brancaster. The Jolly Sailor and The White Horse on route. Burnham Deepdale has shops and café.

You can see other photos from this walk and previous walks on the Norfolk Coast Path in my Flickr album

Hunstanton to Thornham (Stage 1 Norfolk Coast Path) (5.3 miles)

This walk is part of the Norfolk Coastal Path which runs from Hunstanton to Cromer.  We intend to walk the length of it (in stages - its about 42 miles!) and have indeed visited many of the towns on route before but where better to start than the beginning! 

The Norfolk Coast Path starts from the gardens in Hunstanton town but we parked up in Old Hunstanton opposite the old lighthouse. The official path takes you along to Holme-next-the-Sea via a path through the dunes behind the beach huts and along the golf course but, as the tide had just started to go out, we walked the first couple of miles along the beach and these are the directions I’ve given. Do check the tides though - if it is coming in and it is a high tide you may not have enough beach to walk on!  This end of Hunstanton could not be more different to the town end.  Although it was only just after 9.00am it was the first full week of the summer holidays but, once we had walked a hundred metres or so along the beach and passed a couple of dog walkers, we were alone right until Holme.  Fabulously peaceful!

Beach walk Old Hunstanton

It should be mentioned that the cliffs along this part of the coast are very crumbly so stay away from both the edges up the top and the base below on the beach.  Further along the walk you come to salt marshes and lagoons and although they are not fenced off you must be aware of the tides if you decide to walk on them.  The tide comes in very fast and getting cut off is a very real danger.  Stick to the coast path through this area to be sure of staying safe!

The walk will take you through the Holmes Dunes Reserve with breathtaking views of its glorious beach and on into Thornham via it's old harbour - now mostly mud, water and wading birds.

Once at Thornham we stopped for lunch at The Chequers pub.  The food was nice, if a little pricey, and there are plenty of tables. There is also The Orange Tree, The Lifeboat Inn and on the road out of Thornham (back towards Holme) there is The Deli andCafé.

One big advantage of walking this part of the coast is the Coasthopper bus service. It runs along the same route as the path and in the summer it runs every half hour. This makes the return journey back to the car, or onwards to your next walk extremely easy.

Directions:

1. At the old lighthouse as you look out to the sea take the path to the right along the cliffs until you get to a small wooded area with a sandy path.  If you are following the exact coastal path take the path marked up into the dunes.  If going along the beach as we did go left.  Once on the beach as you look at the sea go right.  Follow the beach about 2 miles past wide expanses of lagoons and sand banks full of birds, to the start of the salt marshes.  The beach will narrow between the marshes and the dunes but continue on through the wooden posts until you come to a natural pathway through the dunes on your right.

2. Once through the dunes follow the pathway with the golf course on your right.  You will come to a signpost showing you have now rejoined the coast path. This is also where the Peddars Way path joins.  Take the path diagonally in front of you marked to Cromer. The coast path along here ranges from sandy shingle to boardwalk.  It is fairly easy to walk on but may get muddy in bad weather.

Peddars Way joins Norfolk Coast Path

3. Follow the pathway past more salt marshes and on into the Holme Dunes Reserve.  Once into the dunes you can once again see the sea and the large expanse of beach at Holme.

Holme-next-the-Sea beach

4. Continue on the path until you reach an area of pine forest.  The Holme Reserve visitor centre is now on a path to your right.

5. Continue straight on through the pine forest until you come to some steps on your right.  Go up the steps and then follow the path to the left.  Continue on the path which will eventually take a sharp left before going along the marshes. Follow the path as it turns right at the old harbour.  You should see dead trees sticking out of the mud (if the tide is out!) and maybe a boat or two here.  Follow the path through the gateway ahead and onto a wider roadway.  

Thornham harbour

6. Cross diagonally and take the pathway marked on the left.  Follow the pathway through with reed beds on your left and a pond on your right.  You will eventually come out over a small bridge.  Turn right and continue until you reach the roadway.  Turn right and follow the roadway into the village.  You will come to a war memorial with The Orange Tree restaurant on your right.

The official coastal path continues over the road and inland a little here, although I’m not sure why and I’m pretty sure you could bypass it and go through Thornham, anyhow this time we did turn left and stopped for lunch at The Chequers before catching the Coasthopper bus back to Hunstanton.

Our route was 5.3 miles

See the route on Mapometer

Terrain: Mostly flat and easy although a slight climb into the dunes reserve. Coastal path is mostly compacted stones, boardwalk or compacted sand.  Beach is fine sand.

Habitats: Coastal cliffs, beach, sea and dunes. Salt and mud flats. Bird reserve.

Facilities: Toilets and refreshments (check opening) at Hunstanton cliff car park.  Toilets and refreshments (check opening, toilets accessible with token) at Holme Reserve Visitors Centre. Pubs and café in Thornham.  Coasthopper bus stop (back to Hunstanton) opposite The Orange Tree.

You can see the rest of my photos from the Norfolk Coast Path in my Flickr album

Chesterton to Quayside River Walk, Cambridge (4 miles)

Today’s walk is one of my Sunday morning favourites, not least because half way we get to have croque madames in Cafe Rouge!  Although today was dry and bright it is a great walk to do if you want to get out but it has been wet - you are on pathways all the time.  The route is well used by walkers, runners and cyclists both for leisure and commuting into and out of the Cambridge.

If you want a longer walk then you can start further up the river at Milton or even Fen Ditton (see my previous walk from Clayhithe)

For this specific route though we park in Water Street in Chesterton but anywhere in Chesterton is fine, just make your way to the Green Dragon pub and cross the road and go over the bridge.

River Cam from the Green Dragon Bridge

Once over the river you are now on Stourbridge Common.  Take the path to the right and follow it along the river.  Really that’s all you need to know - river on your right on the way and on your left coming back but there are a few markers along the way:

Once you leave Stourbridge Common walk along Riverside and past the bridge and alongside the tall brick chimney of the Cambridge Museum of Technology.  Follow Riverside on and under Elizabeth Way bridge.

Cambridge Museum of Technology

You are now on Midsummer Common.  Again follow the river through the common with the University boat houses on the other bank.  There will not be many days that there are not rowers out but Sunday mornings it is almost guaranteed!

Carry on past the back of Midsummer House restaurant and the Fort St George pub and under Victoria Avenue bridge.

The other side of the bridge is now Jesus Green.  Go on past the open air swimming pool to the lock.  Keep going keeping the river on your right until you reach the wooden boardwalk of Quayside.

Jesus Green, Cambridge

Walk along Quayside with Magdalene College on the other bank.  In peak times the punt touts operate from this area, don’t be afraid to firmly say no if you don’t want a punt!  Equally it is a lovely trip onwards through the colleges and along a part of the river you can’t normally see unless you belong to the university.  Don’t be afraid to haggle on the price either!

Personally we normally go left at Magdalene Street and just along a few yards for brunch and those croque madames!

The return route is just back the way you came but this morning we did a slight detour turning right up Magdalene Street and over the river.  Cross at the crossroads and walk up towards Castle Hill.  Once at Cambridgeshire County Council’s Shire Hall take the gap in the wall on your right and through the car park to the Castle Mound.  It’s just a short climb up the mound to take in the view across Cambridge.

Cambridge University Library from Castle Mound

Return back down Castle Hill, across the crossroads but now turn left and walk along Chesterton Lane and then Chesterton Road until you reach a metal bridge on your right crossing the river over the weir.  Turn left once on the other bank and return along the tow path with the river on your left until you reach the Green Dragon bridge.  Cross here to return to your car.

Our route was: 4 miles

See the route on mapometer.com

Terrain: Flat (slight incline if you detour to Castle Hill, sharper incline if you climb the mound). Tarmac path all the way except for small section of wooden staging at Quayside.  Cattle grids and pedestrian swing gates. 

Habitats: River, common land, park, urban.
Facilities: Public toilets on Midsummer Common (off route) or at the lock on Jesus Green and Quayside (on route).

Green Dragon pub at start, Fort St George on route, various cafes and restaurants along Quayside and Magdalene Street.

Note:  Stourbridge and Midsummer Common often have cattle grazing although they are well used to passers-by.

Holkham & Wells Circular, Norfolk (4.6 miles)

Holkham is a village on the north Norfolk coast and has a magnificent beach stretching for miles.  This walk takes in the beach east to Wells-next-the-Sea and returns back through pine woods.  The walk is part of the Norfolk Coastal Path which stretches from Hunstanton to Cromer.  The walk can be undertaken in many stages and is shadowed by the Coasthopper bus service so you can always walk and bus back if you want to go further.

Holkam is also home to Holkham Hall and Estate which we also visited briefly.  If you pay for the day when parking near the beach this can be used in the park also.  Check website for opening times and other prices.

We were lucky when we visited the beach as the tide was low.  Having seen the tide line I would recommend checking the tide times and walking at low tide to appreciate the beach at its best.

Parking is available in Lady Anne’s Drive, opposite The Victoria, in Holkham.

Holkham beach

After parking go through the gates and follow the pathway in front to the beach viewing area.  Take the boardwalk to the right until you reach a bench.  Go down the boardwalk onto the beach basin.

Walk straight ahead and turn right in front of the sand dunes.  The sand on Holkham beach is beautifully soft but for ease of walking we prefer to go right down to the shore line - obviously how far this will be will depend on the tide.

Follow the beach for about 2 miles until you see the beach huts of Wells on your right.  If the tide allows, walk in front of the small dunes headland and then turn up the beach following the boat channel which will then be on your left.  

Beach huts at Wells-next-the-Sea

At the top of the beach head for the boardwalk under the lifeguard and go up the sloped roadway.  Once at the top of the slope you will see Wells harbour and the long straight pathway that runs alongside and heads to the town in the distance.  

If you aren’t detouring to visit the town, take a right down the steps, stopping at The Beach Cafe for refreshments if you wish (toilets are opposite the cafe).  For the return journey take the path that runs alongside the righthand side of the car park.  Go through the gateway and take the left track into the nature reserve.

Follow the wide sandy track along the edge of the pinewoods for about a mile and a half until you reach Lady Anne’s Drive again.

Wells harbour looking towards the town

Our route was: 4.55 miles
See the route on mapometer.com
Terrain: mostly flat, sand, sandy paths,
Habitat: beach, dunes, pine woods
Facilities: Toilets and beach cafe at Wells.  Further toilets and Stables cafe at Holkham Estate (parking charges apply if not included in your beach parking).  Note:  Good to see gluten free options available in both cafes

Southwold to Walberswick, Suffolk (6.3 miles)

Although we have been to Southwold many times we’ve never been to Walberswick so we thought we’d do one of the popular walks in this area.  I had found various versions of it online and thought I had it all planned out but we did get lost - twice at least!  The map shows the version we ended up doing - we went wrong somewhere in the Walberswick nature reserve and never did walk through the reed beds as I had anticipated!  As we weren’t sure where we were, or how far we would have to go to eventually get back to the village, you’ll see we ended up doubling back while we could still see the church.  We stopped for lunch in The Anchor - a bit of a shame they don’t just do sandwiches but the fishcake and chips were lovely.  We both really liked pretty Walberswick, a contrast to the madness of Southwold at this time of year, so we will go back to get lost some more!

Although there is parking in various places around Southwold, we parked in a free car park on Ferry Road and because we needed a toilet stop and had just past one we went left towards Southwold first.  We then cut down a footpath that runs along side the road and comes out at the Harbour.  If you don’t need a toilet detour (and don’t worry we later found some at the Harbour - near the caravan site - anyway!) then take a right out of the car park and walk up to the end of Ferry Road.  

The ferry crossing from Southwold to Walberswick

Turn right down the harbour wall.  Here you will find the ferry if you wish to cross this way (the ferry operates in the summer only and closes for lunch). However, we walked alongside the River Blythe with its boats and fish shacks, passing The Harbour Inn, until we reached a metal bridge to cross over to Walberswick.  

Once over the bridge we carried straight on up a well-trodden track.  This will eventually become a tarmac surface.  We followed this until we came to the village.  Here instead of going into the village we followed the bridle way and then a pathway to the right going into the nature reserve.  It was around here, an open access area, we became unsure of which direction we were heading and how far it was going to be.  We followed a path through some heathland until we came to a bench in the corner on the left where we took stock and seeing that it was nearly lunch time decided to return back to the village. 

Once back on the road we followed Church Lane past St Andrew’s church and ruins turning left onto The Street.  We walked right down this road (no footpath) until we reached The Anchor on the right hand side where we stopped for lunch.

St Andrew's Church and ruins, Walberswick

After refreshments, we crossed the road and turned left past a few shops and the green and walked down Ferry Road.  At the car park we went left across the grass to get back to the ferry.  As this was closed for lunch we went left along the bank of the river until we reached the bridge.  Rather than walking down along the river again we took the bridle way on the right.  It runs alongside the harbour roadway and joins up with the Suffolk Coastal path we took in the morning.  We however, rejoined the harbour roadway at The Harbour Inn, and walked back to the car along the Ferry Road.

Our route was: 6.33 miles
See the route on mapometer.com 
Terrain: Flat
Habitat: Marshland, Heathland, Reed beds, Coastal, Harbour, River, Estuary, Village
Facilities: Toilets along Ferry Road and at the caravan park in Southwold, various shops, cafes, pubs in town.  The Harbour Inn Southwold side of the river.  The Anchor and The Bell in Walberswick village along with various cafes, tea rooms and shops.  Ferry crossing (summer months only, check opening hours)

Why not have a look at the rest of my photos from this walk, and also from previous visits to Southwold.

The River Cam from Clayhithe, Cambridgeshire (3.5 miles)

Today I just needed a stroll for some fresh air.  N had been out this morning playing golf and he wasn’t really up for a long walk too far away.  We decided to go along the river starting at Clayhithe which is between Horningsea and Waterbeach.  Although it can get busy at times with joggers and cyclists also sharing the towpath, it is a lovely stretch of the river.  We have seen herons, swans, moorhens and cormorants, dragonflies, damselflies and butterflies.  

The River Cam at Clayhithe

There are parking spaces for a few cars by the entrance to the towpath (opposite The Bridge pub); in the pub (check first and only polite to purchase a drink and/or meal first) or at weekends there will probably be space in the station car park (fee payable).  

This walk is a little different to the others I have written about in that the mileage you do is really up to you.  Once you get on to the towpath, just follow it as far as you want.  If you stay with the river you can't really go wrong.  The length of The Cam from Clayhithe to Quayside in the centre of Cambridge is about 6 miles so, remembering you have to walk back to the car, you can walk anything from 1 mile to 12.  

The River Cam, Horningsea

Today we walked just under 3.5 miles round trip.  This took us almost to Bait’s Bite Lock (1.9 miles).  You can carry on past the lock and under the A14 to the Green Dragon Bridge in Chesterton (4 miles).  If you want to keep going then cross the bridge and follow the path along Stourbridge Common, past Riverside, under the Elizabeth Way bridge, along Midsummer Common, Jesus Green and onto Quayside (6 miles).  As the first refreshment stop after The Bridge at the start is not until The Green Dragon pub (4 miles) I recommend taking supplies if you are doing anything further than Bait's Bite Lock.  (Also see this route from The Green Dragon pub into Quayside and back)

Quayside, Cambridge

Our route was: 3.47 miles (this time!)
See the route on mapometer.com
Terrain: Flat, gravel towpath and tarmac
Habitat: River, Urban, Meadow, Park
Facilities: The Bridge pub, Clayhithe; The Green Dragon pub; various restaurants, bars etc on Quayside.

Newnham to Cambridge City Loop (2.2 miles)

This walk starts at Lammas Land Car Park, which is accessed from Newnham Road traffic lights junction, and heads into Cambridge, along the backs of the colleges, through to King's Parade and the mill pond before heading back along The River Cam.  It is a great mix of rural and urban and we think it is best early on a Sunday morning.  The car park can get full very quickly on a nice day!

It is worth a quick detour into the Paradise Nature Reserve before you leave Newnham.  This is one of my favourite parts of the river, a peaceful section through a small wood.  Also if you are a visitor to Cambridge there are lots places you can wander off route to visit the colleges, shops, markets and galleries.

Swan in Paradise NR, Newnham

1. From the car park take a small gateway into the reserve and follow the track in a loop through the wood and along by the river before coming out again in the car park.
2. Carry on towards the play area and pool but take a right across a small bridge.  Follow the path immediately to your left through Sheep’s Green alongside a small waterway.  Carry on until you reach the road (Fen Causeway).  
3. Cross the road at the pedestrian crossing and carry on along the pathway until you reach a pond.  Walk past the restaurants and turn right.  Go past The Granta pub and cross straight over the crossroads at the lights.  
4. Follow the path along Queen’s Road until you reach the entrance to King's College.  Take the sandy track that runs along 'The Backs' (King’s College Chapel should be on your right).  
5. You can then go through either Clare College, if it is open, this is chargeable during the summer but often not during the winter months, and then bear left into Trinity Lane then right down St Mary’s Passage.  Or go up to the next entrance (Garrett Hostel Lane) which is a right of way.  This will also bring you out on Trinity Lane but this time turn right and then left into St Mary’s Passage.
6. Once out of St Mary’s Passage turn right onto King’s Parade.  Follow this road past The Senate House and King’s College on your right and Gt. St. Mary’s church on your left.  There are lots of cafes, restaurant’s and pubs on this route, especially the Cambridge end but, if we have walked in the morning, we often stop off at The Copper Kettle opposite King’s for a sausage sandwich before making our way back!
7. At the end of King’s Parade swing right into Silver Street and follow the road before cutting through Laundress Lane, behind The Anchor pub.  At the end of the lane go right down to the mill pond.  
8. Cross the river and then follow the river to the left past the punts and weir.  The Double Tree Hotel should be on your left on the opposite bank.  Walk alongside the river all the way back to the roadway (Fen Causeway), cross the road and continue to walk with the river back towards Lammas Land.  Take the small bridge on your right back to the car park.

King's College Chapel

Our route was: 2.18 miles
See the route on mapometer.com
Terrain: Flat, mostly tarmac paths apart from the nature reserve.
Habitat: Woodland, river, meadow, urban
Facilities: Lammas Land end has toilets and a kiosk (summer only).  Cambridge end has numerous cafes, restaurants, pubs and shops.