Burnham Overy Staithe to Wells-next-the-Sea (Stage 3 Norfolk Coast Path) (7 miles)

The weather was grey and misty when we arrived in Burnham Overy Staithe  for stage 3 of our Norfolk Coast Path walk.  Apparently Nelson learned to row here and once we turned down the harbour road it was clear the tide was right in.  There is parking here at the harbour but do not leave your car without checking the tides!  Having recently taken delivery of a new car we were reluctant to see it floating out to sea so went to plan B.  We drove on to Wells-next-the-Sea and parked up in the car park before catching the first Coasthopper bus of the day (Sunday – 9.40am but do check the timetables) back to Burnham O.S.

Burnham Overy Staithe

Once we were off the bus at The Hero pub we took the road opposite down to the harbour and turned right.  This part of the walk is along a bank which winds its way towards the sea.  The air was still with not a hint of breeze this morning but you are quite exposed and I imagine, like our previous walk, it could be cold on a blowy winter's day.

Burnham Overy Staithe

Despite the restrictive parking, it was nice to see the tide in for a change.  On our previous two walks (Stage 1 & Stage 2) we had been surrounded by mud and all the boats were stranded in the marshes.  

I’ve never really seen Small Egrets until I walked this path and today there were lots making the most of the food bought in on the tide.  There were a few serious photographers out too, long lenses balancing on monopods pointing towards a group of what I thought were Egrets as they fished in the lagoons. (I later zoomed in close to the photo I took - they were a long way away so it's not clear enough to post up - and have decided they were actually Spoonbills, another first for us)

Dunes leading onto the beach

After about 1 ½ miles the bank became a boardwalk and we headed into the dunes.  After a short climb over the top we stopped to take in the view - a spectacularly beautiful sandy beach.  The official coastal path goes through the dunes but we went down onto the sand.  The tide by now was just starting to go out and we turned right walking along the edge of the shore for a few miles as the sun started to burn through.  It truly is a stunning unspoilt stretch of beach.  We crunched over millions of shells, especially razor fish shells which litter in drifts along the high tide mark.  This beach, and many of the North Norfolk beaches were badly damaged by the storm surges in December 2013 but you can see the dunes starting to re-establish themselves already.

Razor fish shells on Holkham beach

We followed the line of the dunes for a while in the now warm sunshine.  We actually started to find walking on the sand got tougher as it dried out and, knowing we had quite a way to go, we took a path on the right, cutting through the dunes slightly early, and walked along the inside edge of the pine woods coming out in the nature reserve near the bird hide.  The hide was full with people watching large noisy flocks of geese out on the marshes.  The official route goes a bit further along the sand/dunes coming out at Holkham Gap.  Either way you will eventually come out at the top of Lady Anne's Drive in Holkham.  Again you have a choice, you can walk through the pine woods or as we did cross the road and follow the bike trail along the outside edge.  You could also just keep to the sand and walk right to Wells if your calves will take it, although again do watch the tide times as there are many sandbanks and strong currents along here.

Holkham beach

We had done this part of the walk before, albeit in the opposite direction.  As it is close to the car park at Holkham and to Wells holiday park it was busier than the first part.  As well as walkers, we passed dog walkers and cyclists, all enjoying surely one of the last warm summery Sundays of the year.  We stopped for a while on a bench and watched a pair of buzzards circling over head.

Buzzard at Holkham/Wells

Eventually the trail bends round to the left, passing some holiday chalets and then at the signposted junction we took a right towards a car park. We stopped briefly here for the toilets but decided to carry on to the town for something to eat, although the café near the car park is good.  We climbed the steps onto the pathway that runs alongside the harbour and Beach Road and followed it towards the town just as the clouds began to gather again.  (There is a little train that runs up and down here too sometimes)

The walk to Wells-next-the-Sea town

The car park we started at is just to the right at the end of the road but we stopped to pick up our lunch in the excellent Wells Deli opposite and ate it on the harbour wall before heading home.

Route:
1.              From The Hero pub in Burnham Overy Staithe follow the road opposite to the harbour. 
2.              Take a right and follow the path along the top of the bank.
3.              At the dunes either follow the path on the right along the top of the dunes or go down onto the beach and turn right.
4.              Follow for a few miles until you reach Holkham Gap on your right (not signposted)
5.              Follow the boardwalk away from the beach and either go through the woods or along the marked path on the outside of the woods.
6.              Follow the pathway until you reach a junction.
7.              Take a right and go through the gateway into the car park.
8.              Walk between the café and the toilets and take the steps up onto the pathway.
9.              Follow the pathway into Wells town.
10.          At the main road turn right to get back to the car park.

Our route was 6.96 miles.

See the route on mapometer

Terrain: Grass paths and boardwalks from Burnham O.S. flat and easy although small climb into the sand dunes, beach is mixture of wet and soft sand, through the nature reserve and along the edge of the pine woods the paths are wide and sandy and easy going.  Flat tarmac path to the town. 

Habitat: Marshes, coastal, pine woods, nature reserve, ponds, harbour, urban

Facilities: Toilets at car park in Wells, Coasthopper bus stop near car park.  No toilets that I could see at Burnham O.S. although there is the The Hero pub.  Toilets and café at the beach end car park of Wells.  Numerous shops, cafes, fish and chips in Wells town.

You can see my photos from the other stages of our Norfolk Coast Path walk on my Flickr album

Brancaster to Burnham Overy Staithe (Stage 2 Norfolk Coast Path) (6 miles)

Although we finished stage 1 of our Norfolk Coast Path walk in Thornham, the next part of the path is inland so we decided to pick it up again at Brancaster.  We were originally aiming for Burnham Deepdale but this wasn’t as far as we had anticipated so decided to carry on to Burnham Overy Staithe.  Unfortunately in the hope of finding a pub or café we took a wrong turning and ended up in Burnham Norton and, as we couldn’t find pub, café or bus stop, we decided to walk on via the roadway to Burnham Market rather than double back.  So we didn’t actually make it to Burnham Overy Staithe, despite seeing it quite clearly in front of us!!  Not really knowing Burnham Market very well and coming out up one end, again with no pub in sight, we caught the bus back to Brancaster for lunch.  Burnham Market turned out to be a lovely looking place and as we went through on the brilliant Coasthopper bus we were quite sad we hadn’t explored it a bit further.  Another day perhaps.  

Brancaster Staithe

Back in Brancaster we popped over the road from the church to The Ship Hotel for lunch. The scampi and chips and warm bread rolls were lovely but unfortunately they lost our order from the bar to the kitchen somewhere so we ended up waiting for over an hour.  They did take the food off our bill, in the end, but a family with young children next to us also had to enquire about their food.  It was a lovely homely bar and the food was good so it's a shame the service let them down. 

The directions are for as far as we got before the wrong turn and then as they are on the map.  It should perhaps be noted that although this is the coastal path you are not in sight of the beach or the sea!

We parked just by the church in Brancaster.  There is a car park down at the beach and if you park here you will need to walk back up the road towards the village until you reach the signpost for the coastal path to Brancaster Staithe.  This area is all part of the National Trust's Brancaster Estate

Once on the coastal path follow it to Brancaster Staithe harbour.  You will have the back gardens of some rather lovely houses on your right and the marsh to your left.  Most of this part of the walk is on boardwalk.  You will pass a sign on your right for the Roman Fort of Branodunum although this is just earthworks now so not much to look at sadly.

When you reach the harbour go slightly right and around towards the harbour entrance.  There is a lobster shack on the left and the coast path continues opposite. 

Brancaster Staithe

After a short distance the path crosses a roadway and runs between two old buildings before coming out in the marshes again.  Follow this path again with gardens on your right and the marshes on the left.  The garden of The White Horse pub is along here if you need a break, although not very well marked.

Eventually you will come to a signpost.  If you want to finish in Barnham Deepdale follow the sign to the shop and café.  If not cross over and continue up some steps onwards to Bunham Overy Staithe (another 3 ¾ miles).

The path from here onwards is along a bank.  We walked this on a very blustery day, post ex-hurricane Bertha.  Although the wind was coming from the shore and not cold we were quite exposed and it was difficult to walk at times, and hold the camera still! I’m not sure I’d want to walk it in a cold winter wind!!  We were rewarded though by large flocks of geese flying over us.

Geese over Burnham Overy Marshes

Eventually the bank swings right and Burnham Overy Staithe is in front of you to the left, however, the bank then turns right again to go around the marshes so you are going back on yourself.  This is where we made the wrong decision. (Note to self: get a map!)  You will come to a T junction with a signpost to carry on on the coastal path or take a public footpath.  Because we were tired from battling with the wind we decided to head to the nearby village we could see on the footpath.  This was a bad move as Burnham Norton didn’t appear to have any facilities, nor a Coasthopper bus stop, so we then ended up walking another grumpy mile to Burnham Market instead.

Burnham Overy Staithe

However, if you continue on the coastal path to the left with the windmill in front of you then left again you will arrive in Burnham Overy Staithe. 

Our route was 7 miles (would have been 6 if we hadn’t detoured)

See the proper route on mapometer

Terrain: Easy, mostly flat, boardwalk, grass, could get muddy/flooded, stile, kissing gate

Habitat: Marsh, reedbeds, estuary, harbour

Facilities: (not sure what is available in Burnham Overy Staithe) Parking, toilets and kiosk at Brancaster beach. The Ship Hotel in Brancaster. The Jolly Sailor and The White Horse on route. Burnham Deepdale has shops and café.

You can see other photos from this walk and previous walks on the Norfolk Coast Path in my Flickr album

Hunstanton to Thornham (Stage 1 Norfolk Coast Path) (5.3 miles)

This walk is part of the Norfolk Coastal Path which runs from Hunstanton to Cromer.  We intend to walk the length of it (in stages - its about 42 miles!) and have indeed visited many of the towns on route before but where better to start than the beginning! 

The Norfolk Coast Path starts from the gardens in Hunstanton town but we parked up in Old Hunstanton opposite the old lighthouse. The official path takes you along to Holme-next-the-Sea via a path through the dunes behind the beach huts and along the golf course but, as the tide had just started to go out, we walked the first couple of miles along the beach and these are the directions I’ve given. Do check the tides though - if it is coming in and it is a high tide you may not have enough beach to walk on!  This end of Hunstanton could not be more different to the town end.  Although it was only just after 9.00am it was the first full week of the summer holidays but, once we had walked a hundred metres or so along the beach and passed a couple of dog walkers, we were alone right until Holme.  Fabulously peaceful!

Beach walk Old Hunstanton

It should be mentioned that the cliffs along this part of the coast are very crumbly so stay away from both the edges up the top and the base below on the beach.  Further along the walk you come to salt marshes and lagoons and although they are not fenced off you must be aware of the tides if you decide to walk on them.  The tide comes in very fast and getting cut off is a very real danger.  Stick to the coast path through this area to be sure of staying safe!

The walk will take you through the Holmes Dunes Reserve with breathtaking views of its glorious beach and on into Thornham via it's old harbour - now mostly mud, water and wading birds.

Once at Thornham we stopped for lunch at The Chequers pub.  The food was nice, if a little pricey, and there are plenty of tables. There is also The Orange Tree, The Lifeboat Inn and on the road out of Thornham (back towards Holme) there is The Deli andCafé.

One big advantage of walking this part of the coast is the Coasthopper bus service. It runs along the same route as the path and in the summer it runs every half hour. This makes the return journey back to the car, or onwards to your next walk extremely easy.

Directions:

1. At the old lighthouse as you look out to the sea take the path to the right along the cliffs until you get to a small wooded area with a sandy path.  If you are following the exact coastal path take the path marked up into the dunes.  If going along the beach as we did go left.  Once on the beach as you look at the sea go right.  Follow the beach about 2 miles past wide expanses of lagoons and sand banks full of birds, to the start of the salt marshes.  The beach will narrow between the marshes and the dunes but continue on through the wooden posts until you come to a natural pathway through the dunes on your right.

2. Once through the dunes follow the pathway with the golf course on your right.  You will come to a signpost showing you have now rejoined the coast path. This is also where the Peddars Way path joins.  Take the path diagonally in front of you marked to Cromer. The coast path along here ranges from sandy shingle to boardwalk.  It is fairly easy to walk on but may get muddy in bad weather.

Peddars Way joins Norfolk Coast Path

3. Follow the pathway past more salt marshes and on into the Holme Dunes Reserve.  Once into the dunes you can once again see the sea and the large expanse of beach at Holme.

Holme-next-the-Sea beach

4. Continue on the path until you reach an area of pine forest.  The Holme Reserve visitor centre is now on a path to your right.

5. Continue straight on through the pine forest until you come to some steps on your right.  Go up the steps and then follow the path to the left.  Continue on the path which will eventually take a sharp left before going along the marshes. Follow the path as it turns right at the old harbour.  You should see dead trees sticking out of the mud (if the tide is out!) and maybe a boat or two here.  Follow the path through the gateway ahead and onto a wider roadway.  

Thornham harbour

6. Cross diagonally and take the pathway marked on the left.  Follow the pathway through with reed beds on your left and a pond on your right.  You will eventually come out over a small bridge.  Turn right and continue until you reach the roadway.  Turn right and follow the roadway into the village.  You will come to a war memorial with The Orange Tree restaurant on your right.

The official coastal path continues over the road and inland a little here, although I’m not sure why and I’m pretty sure you could bypass it and go through Thornham, anyhow this time we did turn left and stopped for lunch at The Chequers before catching the Coasthopper bus back to Hunstanton.

Our route was 5.3 miles

See the route on Mapometer

Terrain: Mostly flat and easy although a slight climb into the dunes reserve. Coastal path is mostly compacted stones, boardwalk or compacted sand.  Beach is fine sand.

Habitats: Coastal cliffs, beach, sea and dunes. Salt and mud flats. Bird reserve.

Facilities: Toilets and refreshments (check opening) at Hunstanton cliff car park.  Toilets and refreshments (check opening, toilets accessible with token) at Holme Reserve Visitors Centre. Pubs and café in Thornham.  Coasthopper bus stop (back to Hunstanton) opposite The Orange Tree.

You can see the rest of my photos from the Norfolk Coast Path in my Flickr album

Ickworth (South Pleasure Grounds) (4 miles)

Ickworth house and park belongs to the National Trust.  It is free to walk in the extensive grounds.

This route is taken from the website (South Pleasure Grounds walk).  I have copied and pasted their instructions as they were pretty good and added the odd note where I thought helpful.

1. Starting at the Porter's Lodge visitor reception take the path (on the right) towards the Walled Garden (and the church). You will pass a small pond on your right.

St Mary's Church, Ickworth

2. Just past the church, go straight ahead by turning off the hard road onto the grass path that leads
to the left of the Walled Garden. Go through the five bar gate and immediately bear left on the grass
path veering away from the brick wall. Within a couple of minutes you'll see our bird hide on your right.

3. Continue along this path past the bird hide (do not take the right fork when you come to it, just carry on), cross over the wooden foot bridge (and walk along wooden walkway) and take the right
hand fork in the path, climbing a short series of steps bringing you to the Fairy Lake.

Fairy Lake, Ickworth

4. Turn right at the Fairy Lake and continue along the footpath (pass The Round House) and take the second right turn marked Katharine's Wood.

5. In Katharine's Wood continue to the end of this path until you reach a cottage called Ivy Cottage.
Turn right at the cottage and follow this path until you get to the beginning of Lownde Wood. (Pause here to take in the view of the estate and the Rotunda)

Views of the park and rotunda

6. Enter Lownde Wood on the patch (the middle path) between the Lownde Wood and red footpath way marker.

7. In Lownde Wood follow the path which firstly bears right and then bears left. (Keep going!) On your left you will pass an observation post before coming to a clearing break. Cross over the clearing (keep the observation post on your left shoulder do not turn right - the path isn't well used or marked) and enter to wood again. On your right hand side you will come to a metal fence, continue on the path to a Y junction and take the right grassy footpath.

8. At the crossroads turn left and you will cross a small wooden bridge. Follow the dirt track which will
lead you to a small brick bridge at the corner of the field. Keep following the path, passing a rusty,
corrugated and ruined metal cabin on your right.

9. At the next junction turn right and follow the path until you reach a T junction where you'll see an
observation post. Turn right and go through the gate into the field.

10. As soon as you're through the gate turn right and follow the wood line for a short time keeping it to
your right, until you can see the Rotunda in the distance ahead of you.

11. Leave the wood line and head across the field towards the Rotunda passing laid down tree trunks
and passing through a gate on your way. You're heading for a kissing gate (in the distance at the bottom right hand corner of the field) which is lined up with the centre of the Walled Garden just beyond it.

12. Go through the kissing gate and turn left. Walk by the side of the Canal Lake and cross over the
decorative (wooden) foot bridge at the end of the lake.

13. Having crossed the foot bridge, keep the Walled Garden to your right and continue up the slope
to the hardened footpath. Turn right and retrace your steps on this path past the Church and back
towards your start point.

Our route was 3.9 miles
See the route on mapometer.com
Terrain: Flat, grass and dirt tracks mostly, moderate climb at the end. Latch gates, kissing gate, some steps.  Can be muddy in places in wet weather.
Habitats: Meadows, fields (animals grazing), woodland, lakes.
Facilities: Toilets and cafe at Porter's Lodge entrance and at the Rotunda. Rotunda toilets can also be accessed at the back.  Toilets also near the church.

Fen Drayton Lakes (Elney Lake route) (3.6 miles)

This is part of a RSPB reserve and we have been here before but took a different route.  It also links up to the Swavesey Lakes walk.  This time we arrived early on a spring misty morning.  Actually once there is was more like fog and for most of the walk we couldn’t see much at all but keep your eyes peeled as it is full of wildlife.

  

Swan on Drayton Lagoon

It is about a 2 mile drive down to the reserve car park from the road but it is open 24-7 and parking is free.  The lakes are popular with bird watchers, dog walkers and fishermen.

Once at the car park go through the gate at the end and take a left, walk along the meadow, past a small lake on your left and through the gate in front of you.  This brings you out the large Drayton Lagoon in front and a sign post.  For this walk we went left on the walk that circles Elney Lake but there are lots of variations and maps are available to download on the website.

Follow the track alongside Drayton Lagoon on your right and a small waterway on your left until you reach the guided bus-way.  Cross the bus-way (buses have right of way and can travel fast so cross carefully) and carry straight on.  Elney Lake is now on your right and the first viewing area.  Keep ahead until you come to a public footpath on the right.  Go through the gate and follow this long straight track past some more viewing areas.  The track takes a left turn then a right around the top of the lake.  Half way down here you now have Moore Lake on your left and Elney on the right although you do loose sight of Elney for a bit.  There is a viewing shelter on your left giving great views over Moore Lake so do pause here before carrying on until you reach the guided bus-way again. 

Cormorant on Moore Lake

You can take a right here along the track but we carried on over and with Drayton Lagoon now on our right we kept going until we reached the River Great Ouse and turned right.  Follow this lovely river along, over a small bridge (again you have the option here of going right along a small waterway back to the car if wanted).   Carry on along the river until you see the Ferry Boat Inn on the other bank.  The track bears right here.  Continue straight on until you are back at the car park.

Fen Drayton Lakes Reserve

Our route was 3.6 miles

See the route on mapometer.com

Terrain: Flat, mostly grass tracks, latch gates.  Note: this area can be muddy and flood in very wet weather. 

Habitats: River, lakes, grassland

Facilities: No toilets or refreshments.  Nearest at Cambridge Services on A14.